Botany Boy – Page 6 – Plant Encyclopedia

December 14, 2012April 6, 2018

Pterostylis nutans alba, the white flowered nodding greenhood

Pterostylis nutans is a common terrestrial orchid of the eastern states of Australia as well as Tasmania. Much less common is the all white flowered form known as variety alba. I’ve had the good luck of growing this little beauty.

Pterostylis nutans is in all respects a miniature orchid. It grows small, ground hugging rosettes of roughly oval leaves, most not more than 2 cm long each. While these are normally an even bright green color, in the alba form the leaves are lightly veined with white and their overall color is light green. They also are a bit smaller than the normal type, at least in the plants I’ve grown. The rosettes grow from small bulbs and each season these are replaced by new ones that grow at the ends of thin stolons. Each old bulb can grow one to three new ones, so vegetative propagation is the easiest way to increase these plants.

Pterostylis nutan alba plants — The entire plant of Pterostylis nutans alba is rarely more than 15 cm tall.

The flower of P. nutans alba is of course the main interest since it is truly pure white, and like the normal green flowered type, it is transparent as well. It is hard to explain the ghost-like quality of the flowers unless you’ve seen them in person. They are not large, averaging no more than 30 mm across, making them nearly as large as the rosettes of leaves they grow from. Seen up close the flowers look like some alien apparition.

Unfortunately, as with many alba flowering terrestrial orchids, this variety seems less vigorous than the normal type. As already said, the plant itself is smaller in size and also less robust. While normal P. nutans is a near weed if grown properly, this little white flowered plant is more gracile and trickier to maintain. Growth commences in late summer to early fall (September to October) and flowers mature sometime in late winter (February to March). My plants remain green well into spring, and finally go dormant when average temperatures rise above 20 C (usually in early June). They remain dormant all summer.

It seems to respond to similar conditions as the normal form, growing well in a moderately acidic sandy humus compost. While in growth they should be given bright shade, even moisture, and temperatures ranging from 5-20 C. I grow all my Pterostylis on an unheated windowsill in a kitchen where they receive no sunlight, the temperature in January never exceeds 10 C, and can go down to 4 C or even lower on cold nights. One should refrain from giving them temperatures above 20 C, at least in the deep winter months.

Pterostylis nutans alba rosette — The leaves of Pterostylis nutans alba are lightly veined with white and are a lemony-green color.

During the summer dormancy the bulbs should remain absolutely dry. I also recommend yearly repotting for best results with this species, which can be done any time during their dormancy. Pterostylis nutans is famous for “diving” into the pot, forming its little bulbs for the following season nearly at the bottom, and sometimes even extending its bulb tipped stolons right out the drainage holes! For this reason, one must be very careful when repotting them since most of the newly formed bulbs will be deep in the pot, or at the very bottom.

What else can I say about this lovely treasure? It is rare and coveted by terrestrial orchid growers, and I feel privileged to have had the chance to grow them myself.

Pterostylis nutans alba flower — The flower of Pterostylis nutans alba looks like some alien ghost!

Alas, I must confess that after 4 seasons I lost my plants. I started with two average size bulbs that produced one flower the first season. The second season I was rewarded with two flowers and perhaps 10 rosettes of leaves. Oddly, the third season I got no flowers and only a handful of plants. The fourth season they simply dwindled into nothing. What was frustrating was that a pot of the common green form grew right alongside of them, increasing in leaps and bounds each year.

While I’ve searched for more bulbs, I’ve yet to source any more. This little beauty is truly remarkable, and if you are a terrestrial orchid nut like me, once you’ve seen them, you’ll be hooked. My search for new plants continues.

Pterostylis nutans normal and alba flowers — The meeting of two minds? P. nutans alba and the normal green flowered form go head to head.

December 13, 2012March 26, 2018

Pinus densiflora, the Japanese red pine

Japan is famous for three pine species, Japanese black pine (Pinus thunbergii), Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora), and Japanese red pine, (Pinus densiflora). The focus of this article is on the latter species, that like its cousins, is an iconic plant in Japan, used in traditional gardens as a dwarfed tree, but more rarely as a bonsai subject. Moreover, since its wood burns very hot, it makes a great fuel for pottery kilns, and has been used in construction for its durability, strength, and lightness. It is closely related to the Eurasian mainland species, scots pine, Pinus sylvestris.

Pinus densiflora tree — Pinus densiflora is a tall pine species, growing up to 30 or more meters high.

Pinus densiflora is a large coniferous tree growing to 35 meters, but is usually much smaller, not more than 20 meters or so. Specimens found on moister sites with richer soils grow to large sizes and their straight, red barked trunks are unmistakable from a distance. Trees found on cliffs, rock barrens, or dry ridge lines with impoverished soils are far less stately, often standing no more than a few meters tall. The bark is a bright orange-brown color and peels off in paper-like sheets except older bark low on trunks which forms into plates and is silver-gray . The evergreen needles come two per fascicle (or bundle), are a dark green, and up to 12 cm long. Branching is tiered and up swept, forming a distinct, elegant look. Pollen cones appear in early spring, are conical and elongate and orange-yellow in color. The seed cones start at the same time and are yellow to purple in color. These female cones mature by fall and are small, not more than 6 cm long, occurring alone or in clusters. The winged seeds are about 1.5 cm long.

This is a widespread tree in Japan found from northern Honshu and southward to Kyushu and Shikoku. It is most commonly seen growing in low mountains and hillsides, but can be found up to 2500 meters elevation in parts of its range. Its typical habitat are dry ridge lines with poor soils that have been subject to recent disturbance as this is a colonizing species, and is usually one of the first trees to seed in after a fire or other disturbance. For this reason, you often see near pure stands of it here and there, no doubt due to forest fire. I’ve noticed it also colonizes abandoned mines on shear cliffs alongside other weedy pioneer tree species such as Mallotus japonicus and Rhus sylvestris. It is believed that in times past it was much more uncommon a plant since disturbance due to fire was very limited prior to human habitation. It is one of the few trees than can withstand growing in windswept rock barrens.

Pinus densiflora bark — The younger bark is a brilliant orange-brown color, but older bark found lower on trunks is silver-gray and forms plates.

Where this species is found in mixed stands with Japanese black pine, Pinus thunbergii, the unusual hybrid called akakuromatsu (red-black pine) sometimes results (known under the Latin name. P. x densi-thunbergii). These hybrids have the red bark of P. densiflora while retaining the darker, more stout needles of P. thunbergii.
Continue reading “Pinus densiflora, the Japanese red pine”

December 10, 2012April 6, 2018

Japan’s common woodland Platanthera species, P. minor, the large leaved dragonfly orchid

The genus Platanthera is well known for its lovely fringed flowered species such as P. ciliaris and the wildly showy P. grandiflora, both from eastern North America. However, a number of species are just the opposite – small flowered and white to green in color. Southern Japan is home to such a species, P. minor, who’s leaves are far more showy then the flowers themselves.

Platanthera minor is a deciduous woodland terrestrial orchid. It is a fairly small plant with broad bluish green, glossy, finely veined leaves that are rib-less; 6-15 cm long and 2-5 cm wide. They are born on a thick fleshy stem in a lose spiral, 3 to 7 in all, and becoming smaller, eventually ending as floral bracts as they ascend the flower stalk. Sterile plants mostly bear a single, broad leaf with no significant above ground stem showing. These smaller leaves are also unique in that they are more rounded at the ends than the leaves of flowering plants, a trait common to other species of this genus. These do not necessarily represent juvenile plants, but may rather be adults “taking a rest” from a heavy flowering/seeding cycle.

Platanthera minor plant — Platanthera minor is an orchid of moist woodlands, rather than being a bog plant.

The flower stalk grows to a height of 10-25 cm and bears anywhere from 4 to 15 buds each with an accompanying bract that is very large in proportion to the buds themselves. The small greenish-white flowers have an interesting insect-like shape and open sometime in mid July. The light green dorsal sepal and petals form a small cupped hood in which the column is cradled. Two brown pollina contrast strongly with the white column and the downward pointing and backward recurving white lip (which actually looks like a tongue). The remaining sepals are held laterally and curve upward giving the appearance of wings flapping. The spur is long and points backward away from the flower. This strange little flower is not more than a couple centimeters across.

It can be found in the warmer parts of Japan (central Honshu and south to Shikoku, and Kyushu), as well as parts of China, Korea, and Taiwan. On Kyushu it is relatively common in moist forests growing on gentle to severe slopes, but also on ridge lines, from near sea-level to moderate elevations (~50-700 m). Plants occur in small colonies, with few flowering individuals (usually less than 10% of the plants in any given group).

Platanthera minor flowers — The flowers of Platanthera minor cannot be considered showy, but they certainly are unique!

For several years I saw this plant growing here and there on low to moderate size mountains over a large geographical area. Every time I attempted to get pictures of the flowers I was thwarted. I was either there too early, too late, the flower stalks had died, or the plants just “disappeared”. There was a clump that I found just 10 minutes from my house, but I could not find the plant the following year no matter how long I looked. If that weren’t bad enough, the depths of summer’s heat is when this plant flowers, a time when the mosquitoes will will happily cart you away. Talk about frustrating! Finally, in July 2007 I got a shot of a plant in flower, albeit a rather unremarkable specimen.
Continue reading “Japan’s common woodland Platanthera species, P. minor, the large leaved dragonfly orchid”

December 10, 2012April 6, 2018

An odd woodland fern, Japanese grape fern, Botrychium japonicum

Japan is home to an astounding array of fern species, including the grape ferns or moonworts, genus Botrychium. Two commonly seen species in Japan are B. japonicum and B. ternatum, both winter green, summer dormant plants. This article deals with the former, a larger plant in all aspects.

B. japonicum is a winter green species rarely more than 30 cm tall. It has two distinctly different looking fronds. The one that looks like a typical fern frond is called the trophophore and is sterile, while the other one bearing the spores is the sporophore. New growth of both frond types occurs in late summer and early fall. The trophophore is 3 times pinnate. Just after emerging it branches off from the sporophore and separates again into three equal sections, each growing up to a length of 10 or more centimeters. The entire blade is roughly triangular in shape; 20 cm or less at its base and tapering down to its end. The pinnae are toothed sharply and are highly veined. The stipe has a light coating of small scales about halfway up and then becomes naked.

Botrychium japonicum frond — The sterile frond of Botrychium japonicum is divided equally into three sections and is three times pinnate.

The sporophore rises to twice the height of the trophophore and ends in a cluster of opposite branched stems bearing perfectly round spore cases. The lowermost stems are divided again into smaller opposite branches and are long, up to 3-4 cm in length each. These stems progressively get shorter further up and half way up the entire cluster they cease to be branched. The small spore cases group tightly near each other on these stems, giving the appearance of a cluster of tiny grapes (actually, they look like fish eggs to me!). They start out bright green, but eventually turn yellowish, then orange and finally brown with age.

Botrychium japonicum can be found on Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu in Japan as well as Korea, Taiwan, and China. It is most commonly seen in moist deep woods in moderate to heavy shade. Occasionally it is found in conifer plantations, but most often in mixed broad leaf forests. On Kyushu it is usually seen at mid level elevations (~300-600 meters). Plants occur singly or or in small, loose groupings.

This is a strange group of ferns very unlike most except their near cousins, the adder’s tongue ferns, genus Ophioglossum. The best time to see them is in mid fall just after the fronds have emerged. This fern is peculiar in that it seems to prefer mature hardwood forest, or at the very least old plantation forest. You never see it in young plantations. It is more curious than lovely, but I’m always pleased to find one, especially since they are seen only here and there. I’m always a bit startled when I come up on a group since they “magically” appear in places that were empty all spring and summer, being a summer dormant species. Moreover, plants can remain dormant underground for years before appearing again, so any given plant may not be seen for several seasons.

Botrychium japonicum adult — Botrychium japonicum is at its best in the months of October and November, just after emerging.

The genus name, Botrychium, is from the Greek word botrys meaning “grape”, a clear reference to the cluster of tiny spore cases at the end of the fruiting frond. The Japanese name is oohanawarabi, meaning “large flowering bracken” from the words oo = big, hana = flower, and warabi = bracken. Bracken is a term used in the west primarily for the genus Pteridium, but it is more broadly used in Japan with the word warabi for any fern that resembles that genus.

Botrychium japonicum sporophore — The sporophore is the fertile frond, producing the spore, and the reason why these ferns are commonly called “grape ferns” or “flowering ferns”.

Perhaps the plant seems to be a flowering bracken because of the large sporophore which is quite showy when the spore sacs turn yellow . The reason it is called “big” is that it is larger than the other common species in Japan, B ternatum, fuyunohanawarabi (“winter flowering bracken”).

This fern may present a problem in cultivation, though I’ve never tried growing any Botrychium species. Some say they can be transplanted by digging wild plants up with a good section of earth and placing it in a similar woodland. Part of the problem may lie in the fact that these ferns are strongly associated with a fungus symbiont, and may require at least some of their nourishment from them. Some species of this genus have highly reduced trophophores, potentially increasing that dependence. These are therefore probably best appreciated in their native homes, though the more insistent fern lovers may want to try them. It is also possible to try germinating spore provided the correct fungal symbiont can be grown alongside – undoubtedly another difficult process.

A cool species to see in the wilds of Japan, but not a very likely candidate for the garden. This odd genus of woodland fern, though widespread and diverse over much of the northern hemisphere, largely remains an enigma for gardeners.

November 22, 2012April 6, 2018

Videos about ferns

Have a look at these videos anytime you like. This post contains all the videos I have on ferns and will be updated as new videos are produced.

Epiphytes of Kikuchi Gorge – while this video is about all the epiphytes I’ve seen at the lovely Kikuchi Gorge in Kumamoto Prefecture, Kyushu, it contains many ferns and fern relatives. Here you get to see a fantastic epiphytic fern community in the heart of Kyushu’s temperate rain forest.

The Genus Coniogramme in Japan – the bamboo ferns – this video shows the two species of Coniogramme in my area, C. japonica and C. intermedia, as well as the variegated form of C. japonica (f. flavo-maculata) and the natural hybrid between the two species, C. x faurei. Enjoy these beautiful ferns in their native woodlands.

Japanese Fern Hunt, the Brake Ferns, Genus Pteris – focusing on all the common species of Pteris found in the Fukuoka City area, including three similar species, P. cretica, P. multifida, and P. nipponica, two large species, P. wallichiana and P. excelsa, and one oddball, P. dispar. Here you see them in the native habitat and also get a tutorial on how they can be differentiated.

Epiphytic Ferns of Southern Japan – here’s a guide to the more common epiphytic and lithophytic ferns I’ve found in the Fukuoka City area. Epiphytic ferns are becoming rarer in Japan, especially the coveted species, but most in this video thankfully remain quite plentiful.

October 18, 2012March 23, 2018

Zamia variegata, the world’s only variegated cycad plant

The low, wet forests of Central America are home to to the only variegated species of cycad in the world, Zamia variegata. This species is often listed as “small” in size, but don’t be fooled, it can have fronds up to 3 meters long. Though there are a number of related cycad species, none possess its one unique feature – variegated leaves.

Zamia variegata new growth — The newly forming frond of Zamia variegata is covered in a fine light green and brown pubescence.

Z. variegata (also known as Zamia picta or Z. picta variegata) is an evergreen herb with a relatively small underground stem or caudex. This is basically round and usually not more than 20 cm across, boasting just a few leaves at any given time. The fronds are long and their structure is analogous to a once pinnate fern. The midrib or rachis, as well as the petiole is furnished with many short, yet sharp spines.

The petiole may make up as much as 1/3 of the total frond length, which is typically 1.5 to 2.5 meters long, but may be up to 3 meters in exceptional specimens. The pinnae, or leaflets, are born in opposite pairs along the midrib and are quite long and broad, 15-35 cm long and 4-9 cm wide. When mature they are stiff and glossy, a rich green color, and striated with many streaks of irregular yellow-green lines, spots, and patches. Like many cycad plants, they are serrated.

Initially the new fronds start out as tiny yellow/green growths originating from the crown of the caudex. Over a period of 5-8 weeks these gain in size and finally mature and harden off. The young frond is covered in silvery to brownish pubescence, which is eventually shed from the mature frond. The speed at which this young growth expands and matures into a full grown frond is truly remarkable, as in other cycad species.

Zamia variegata mature frond — Mature fronds of Zamia variegata can be up to 3 meters long and hang in a graceful arc.

Continue reading “Zamia variegata, the world’s only variegated cycad plant”

August 20, 2012March 23, 2018

Videos about Cycads

Have a look at these videos anytime you like. This post contains all the videos I have on cycads and will be updated as new videos are produced.

Cycads for the shade garden 1 – Here are some cycads I’m growing in my southern Japanese garden. Sorry about all the ants and the incessant cicada singing! Featured plants include, Ceratozamia robusta, Cycas debaoensis, Cycas revoluta v. alba, Lepidozamia peroffskyana, Zamia dressleri, Zamia elegantissima v. alba (Z. sp. ‘Blanco’), and Zamia imperialis (previously known as the red flushing form of Z. skinneri). Cycas revoluta isn’t necessarily shade loving, but I like to keep seedlings in a more protected place until they get a bit bigger.

Cycads for the shade garden 2 – The second installment of my shade growing cycads. In fact Dioon spinulosum is not necessarily a shade growing plant, but I think they look healthier with at least some shade. Featured plants include Cycas debaoensis, Dioon spinulosum, Zamia pseudoparasitica, and Zamia variegata (AKA Z. picta variegata).

How to repot a cycad – A tutorial for repotting a few Central American cycad species, Ceratozamia robusta, Zamia elegantissima v. alba, and Zamia pseudoparasitica. This step by step video will show you how to repot your precious cycads. Sorry about the mispronunciation of the word, coralloid in the video. These specialized roots of cycads are called this due to their coral-like appearance.

Central American cycads flushing new growth – Summer is time for cycads to flush and here are some Central American species throwing new leaves in my collection. Unfortunately I only get one or two leaves per year out of most species in this climate since their winter quarters are just too cool. All species in the video are true tropical plants. Featured plants include Ceratozamia robusta, Zamia elegantissima v. alba, Zamia imperialis, and Zamia variegata.

July 25, 2012July 25, 2012

Comments Page

If you have any general comments you’d like to make to the site, please post them here. Right now I have no mailing list, but as time goes on I’ll provide more options. I do try to respond to any reasonable comment left on the site. Let me hear what you have to say. Tom

April 23, 2012April 6, 2018

The “pot in pot cooler” – potting Cypripediums for a hot climate

For those of us who simply won’t be stopped from having plants we shouldn’t be growing given the local climate, the “pot in pot cooler” method is a perfect solution. Well, not really, but it is a good excuse to try plants we should pass over. In my case that includes most of the genus Cypripedium, to which I have a hopeless attraction. This article explains the method I’ve used with a modest amount of success in growing Cyps in a climate that nearly approximates Charleston, South Carolina, U.S.A.

When I moved to southern Japan from Florida 10 years ago I had high hopes to be able to coax some of the warmer growing Cypripediums to live in this nearly subtropical climate. In the beginning the failure rate was high, but over time I managed to figure out a method that seemed to work pretty well – the so called “pot in pot cooler” (a variation of a zeer pot refrigerator). What follows is a step by step explanation of this method and materials needed for this approach.

The problem at hand are Cypripedium roots – except for the hot growing outliers, C. subtropicum and the Mexican species, all Cyps are temperate slipper orchids and need cool roots. Any sustained temperature above 25 C is detrimental to Cyp roots, opening them to infection or simply stopping their growth. It is important to note that it is the roots that need to be cool, not necessarily the plant itself.

Cryptomoss is a product made from the ground up bark of Japanese cedar trees. It is water conductive as well as “airy” – a perfect combination for growing Cyps using the pot in pot cooler method.

C. californicum for instance grows in seepage bogs where the substrate never goes above 20 C, but the plants themselves often endure temperatures well above 30 C. Similarly, cool loving species such as C. arietinum and C. reginae are found in bogs and wetlands in the southern reaches of their ranges. While people have mistaken this to mean they like wet conditions, what they really need are cool roots, and bogs make great evaporative coolers. So, let’s see how we can artificially create our own cooler.

The idea of a pot in pot cooler is to create conditions so that the evaporation rate off the pot containing the plant is as high as possible – the more evaporation, the cooler the pot. This necessitates the use of pots made of porous material such that water can migrate from the inner wall of the vessel to the outer easily, thus evaporating once hitting the air. Common, unglazed clay pots fit the bill quite nicely. Choose ones that are a bit larger than necessary to accommodate the plant – Cypripediums like to be over-potted. Other materials you’ll need include horticultural wicking tape (usually sold in rolls and commonly used for growing African violets), a fairly deep (6-8 cm) dish, and chunks of natural charcoal (optional).

The next important issue is what compost should be used – it has to be proper for the plant, wick water easily, and be airy in structure. Porous inorganic materials such as pumice, baked clay, perlite, as well as any number of soil amendments used to lighten mixes (e.g. Soil Perfector, Sermis, etc.) can be used in blended or pure form. Organic materials that don’t break down quickly and conduct water easily can also be used.

Here in Japan a material made from the shredded bark of Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) is commonly available and known as Kuriptomosu (Cryptomoss). Many Cypripedium growers use this product exclusively since it promotes healthy roots and can be used in pot in pot coolers. Do not use chipped wood products, peat moss, or any typical soil. If you live in the USA, cypress mulch made from bald cypress bark (Taxodium distichum) should work provided it doesn’t include wood chips, just the fine, shredded bark. Coir (material made from the husks of coconuts) is also another possibility and has the added bonus of being eco-friendly and available world wide.

Potting a Cyp using wicking tape — Figure 1: step by step, the method for potting a Cyp using wicking tape.

April 16, 2012March 26, 2018

Tsubaki, Camellia japonica

A member of the tea family, Theaceae, Camellia japonica is one of Japan’s most famous flowering trees. Known as tsubaki in Japanese, this plant is a common small tree throughout the warmer regions of the Japanese archipelago. In recent times it has been widely cultivated as a garden plant, but in the not so distant past the oil derived from its bulbous fruits was used as a multipurpose product, serving as a food, a hair and skin treatment, as well as a machine oil.

Camellia japonica tree — Camellia japonica is most commonly seen as a sub canopy tree, but occasionally specimens grow in open, sunny habitats such as this ridge line forest. Homanzan, Fukuoka Prefecture, Kyushu, Japan.

Camellia japonica in nature is an evergreen subcanopy tree, commonly 3 to 6 meters tall, with occasional specimens being quite a bit higher than that. The tallest on record is 18 meters (that’s almost 60 feet!). I’ve seen many in the 10-12 meter range with trunk diameters approaching 60 centimeters in really large trees. The bark is an even gray color and very smooth.

The wide, slightly serrated ovate leaves are borne in an alternating pattern and typically measure between 5-10 centimeters long and 3-6 centimeters wide, ending in a pointed tip. They usually are a deep green color on their dorsal surface and a bit lighter underneath. The dorsal surface is also very glossy, adding to the visual appeal of this plant. The soft, new leaves are most actively in growth after flowering in the spring. Flower buds are formed in the fall and over winter until opening in late winter or early spring.

The flower petals of wild plants are typically deep red, though pure white forms have been reported. They are joined at their bases such that when the flower falls off, it is intact (we’ll see why that is important later). The prominent cluster of stamens are a yellow orange color while the three lobed pistal is “lost’ in them. Wild flowering types commonly boast only a handful of broad petals and the blossoms tend to remain rather cupped compared to many of the cultivated varieties. The fruits are nearly perfectly round before opening, starting out apple green and maturing into a purple-red. They open in three sections (called locules), each containing anywhere from 1-2 large brown seeds.

Flowering season in southern Japan starts in winter, usually not before January, peaks around March, and trails off in late April. At higher elevations flowers can persist even into mid May. Flowering is later further north, and can last into mid spring, however, it is not uncommon to see this tree in flower when snow is still falling. This cold weather flowering habit has earned it one common name, rose of winter. Due to the relative lack of insects in winter, the flowers are often pollinated by small birds, in particular the Japanese white-eye, Zosterops japonica.

Camellia japonica flower — The flower of the common wild type of Camellia japonica is much simpler than most cultivated forms, but lovely and elegant.